Refinance Second Mortgage
Today more and more lenders are offering home equity lines of credit or second mortgage closed-end loans. These types of loans may offer a sizable amount of credit, available for use when you need and at an interest rate that is relatively low. A second or junior mortgage is a closed-end loan and provides you with a fixed amount of money repayable over a fixed period. This type of loan advances all funds at the time the loan is closed with no further advances. You might consider a traditional second mortgage loan instead of a home equity line if, for example, you need a set amount for a specific purpose, such as an addition to your home.
What you must do is look carefully at the credit agreement and examine the terms and conditions including the annual percentage rate (APR), the costs you’ll pay to secure the loan and prepayment penalties. The disclosed APR will not reflect the closing costs and other fees and charges, so you will need to compare these costs among lenders, as well as the APRs. Remember that the APR for a home equity line is based on the periodic interest rate alone and it does not include points or other charges. You can compare the closed-end “note” rate with the line of credit APR and their other charges.
Let’s suppose you made up your mind to refinance. So, if you are a homeowner who was lucky enough to buy when mortgage rates were low, you may have no interest in refinancing your present loan. But perhaps you bought your home when rates were higher or perhaps you have an adjustable-rate loan and would like to obtain different terms. When can your refinancing be worthwhile? A general rule is that refinancing becomes worth your while if the current interest rate on your mortgage is at least 2 percentage points higher than the prevailing market rate. This figure is generally accepted as a safe margin when balancing the costs of refinancing a mortgage against the savings. If you finally decided to refinance you must know that there are costs to pay for second mortgages. Those are:
1) Application Fees that are charged by your lender and which cover the initial costs of processing your loan request and checking your credit.
2) Loan Origination Fees and Points are charged for the lender’s work in evaluating and preparing your mortgage loan. Points are prepaid finance charges imposed by the lender at closing to increase the lender’s yield beyond the stated interest rate on the mortgage note. One point equals one percent of the loan amount. For example, one point on a $65,000 loan would be $650.
3) Other Closing Costs are listed below with average costs:
Appraisal Fee $ 75 to $300
Survey Costs $150 to $400
Home Inspection Fees $175 to $350
Lender’s Attorney’s Fees $75 to $200
Title Search & Insurance $450 to $600
Homeowner’s Insurance $300 to $600
Mortgage Insurance (one year + 2 months premium depending on amount and type of loan)
4) Prepayment Penalty on your present mortgage could be the greatest deterrent to refinancing. Prepayment penalties are forbidden on VA and some other types of loans. Second mortgage loans cannot have a prepayment penalty imposed on loans refinanced by the same creditor, accounts paid by the proceeds of credit insurance, or if paid after three years.
5) Escrowed Funds are funds sufficient to pay for taxes or insurance that is coming due shortly.
A homeowner should plan on paying an average of 3 to 6% of the outstanding principal in refinancing costs or 3 to 10% on second mortgage loans plus any prepayment penalties.
And in conclusion let’s try to answer the following question: “Since it costs money to refinance, how do I know whether or not I will end up saving money?”
Let’s try to do some calculation. To save money, you must stay in your house longer than the “break-even period” – the period over which the interest savings just cover the refinance costs. The larger the spread between the new interest rate and the rate on your existing loan, the shorter the break-even period. The more it costs to obtain the new loan, the longer the break-even period. But beware! The break-even period is not the cost of the new loan divided by the reduction in the monthly mortgage payment. The rule of thumb does not allow for the difference in how rapidly you pay off the new loan as opposed to the old one. Let’s say that in 1992 you took out an 11% 30-year fixed rate loan, which now has a $100,000 balance and 21 years to run. You refinance into a 7% 15-year loan at a cost of $3,750.
Monthly payment on the old loan = $1019
Monthly payment on the new loan = $899
Reduction in monthly payment = $120
$3750 divided by $120 = 31 months
The rule of thumb says that you break-even in 31 months. However, because of the shorter term and lower rate on the new loan, in 31 months you would owe $7,041 less than you would have owed on the old loan. So, the rule of thumb in this case seriously overstates the break-even period. Taking account of differences in the loan balance, you would actually be ahead of the game in 12 months, as shown below:
Savings in monthly payment: $120 for 12 months = $1440
Plus lower loan balance in month 12: $2620
Equals total saving from refinance: $4060
Less refinance cost: $3750
Equals net gain: $310
Next consider the case where an 11% loan taken out in 1992 was for 15 years and now has only 6 years to run, while you plan to refinance into a 30-year loan. With the remaining term shorter on the old loan and longer on the new one, the difference in monthly payment rises to $1238. Using the rule of thumb the $3750 cost would be recovered in only 3 months. But this fails to consider the slower loan repayment on the new loan. Due to a slower repayment, you don’t actually come out ahead until 14 months out.
Anyway, to calculate your refinancing you need to take to consideration such points as the time value of money, taxes and differences in the cost of mortgage insurance between the old and new mortgage. Various calculators are available online (e.g.: www.interest.com).